Burton-upon-Trent in 1817

Description from A Topographical History of Staffordshire by William Pitt (1817)

BURTON-UPON-TRENT.

This town, which is of great antiquity, is situated on the northern bank of the river Trent, in the north-east part of the Hundred of Offlow, and in 52° 53' north latitude, and 1° 35' west longitude. It is distant east from Stafford twenty-five miles, north-east from Lichfield twelve miles, and 126 miles north-west from London.

Burton was a considerable place at an early period of the Saxon dominion in this Island. In the Saxon annals it is written Byretun, synonimous to Buryton, a word used by that people to denote places of British or Roman origin. It is therefore probable that a Bury or manor-house, was the residence of some eminent personage here, before the Saxons conquered England.

The site of Burton is indeed extremely pleasant. Between an extensive space of level and fertile meadows on the west, and a beautiful range of hills on the east, runs the river Trent; these and other hills about two miles north-west of the town, were formerly covered with wood, thus combining all the attractions of a commanding station, fine prospect, and fruitful soil, the principal requisites for the establishment of a permanent habitation.

The ancient records of Burton commence with the history of St. Modwen, who flourished in the ninth century. "In this season, one Modwen, a virgin in Ireland, was greatly renowned in the world, unto whome King Ethelwolfe sent his sonne Alfred to be cured of a disease that was thought incurable; but by hir meanes he recovered health, and therefore when hir monasterie was destroied in Ireland, Modwen came over into England, unto whom King Ethelwolfe gave land to build two abbies, and also delivered unto hir his sister Edith to be professed a nun. Modwen hereupon built two monasteries, one at Poulsworth joining to the bounds of Arderne, wherein she placed the foresaid Edith with Osith and Athea; the other, whether it was a monasterie or cell, she founded in Strenshall, or Trentsall, where she hirselfe remained solitarie a certain time in praier and other vertuous exercises. And (as it is reported) she went thrice to Rome, and finallie died, being 130 yeeres of age. Hir bodie was first buried in an iland compassed about with the river of Trent, called Andresey, taking the name of a church or chappelle of Saint Andrew, which she had built in the same iland, and dwelled therein for the space of seven yeeres. Manie monasteries she builded both in England, and also in Scotland, as at Striveling, Edenbrough; and in Ireland at Celestline, and elsewhere."

In the year 1002, and the twenty-third year of the reign of Ethelred, the Abbey of Burton was founded by Wulfric, Ulfric, or Alfric, Earl of Mercia. The book of Abingdon asserts that Wulfric gave his whole estate, then valued at £700 to endow this Abbey. In the year 1004 this donation was ratified by King Ethelred, and in 1010 Wulfric was slain in an engagement with the Danes.

When Burton Abbey was in its most flourishing state, it possessed very extensive domains, consisting of manors, townships, and lands in this county, and in Derbyshire, Leicestershire, and Warwickshire. In the year 1260, the Abbey was inhabited by thirty monks. There were thirty-live Abbots in succession from the year 1004 to the 4th of November, 1540, when King Henry VIII, after the dissolution of monastic institutions, made the Abbey of Burton a Collegiate Church, dedicated to Christ and St. Mary; to consist of a Dean and four Prebends, and endowed it with the manor of Burton and other possessions. It continued to enjoy this distinction only four years. The seal of the college is beautiful: it is a representation of Our Saviour and his disciples at the Last Supper; the arms of Wulfric, the founder of the Abbey, are engraved at the bottom; and the words in the margin, in Latin, signify "The common seal of the Dean and Chapter of the Collegiate Church of Christ, at Burton-upon-Trent."

This Abbey was very extensive; the church was 228 feet in length, and 52 feet and a half in breadth, adorned with a handsome tower at both ends. The cloisters, situated on the south side of the church, were 100 feet square. The fraytor adjoining was 96 feet in length and 30 in breadth, and the principal dormitory on the east 100 feet by 10. The vestiges of the cloisters are still visible in the old wall between the church-yard and the bowling-green. In this wall are several remains of Saxon architecture, particularly some curious arches; and beyond these, on the margin of the Trent, are some other vestiges of the Monastery. The most remarkable is the outline of the east window of a chapel, now filled up with brick and mortar. The old Manor House is the property of the Marquis of Anglesea: what was once the porter's lodge, on the side next the town, is now converted into a blacksmith's shop.

The Church dedicated to St. Modwen was standing in the early part of the eighteenth century; it was taken down, and the present neat edifice, with a fine tower, was erected on its site in the year 1720. In the west gallery is an elegant and well-toned organ, erected in 1771, and the tower contains eight musical bells with a set of excellent chimes. This church contains many monumental inscriptions: in the belfry lies a defaced monument, supposed to be the tomb of the original founder of the Abbey; and within these few years, several stone coffins have been found in the church-yard. But the most remarkable antiquity in Burton is its bridge, which consists of thirty-six arches, extending 515 feet, and was first built in the time of Bernard, Abbot of Burton, in the reign of King Henry II, about the year 1175.

Burton retains the name of a borough, merely with reference to the translation of Burgos, a town, though some of the Abbots were formerly summoned by writ, and sat in Parliament. The Lord of the Manor has a Court of Record in it, weekly, on Friday, called the Jenter's Court, where pleas can be maintained to any amount, and his Bailiff is also Coroner. A Court of Requests, for the recovery of small debts, is likewise held under the Bailiff. Among other privileges, the inhabitants are exempted from being empannellcd on county juries.

The town of Burton consists of one principal street, called High- street, which extends in a parallel line with the river from north to south. This street is intersected at right angles by another, called Horninglow-street. The Town-hall, which is a neat edifice, is erected on the site of the old market-house. In this hall are held the Courts Leet, and all other public meetings for business or amusement. A remarkable old house is situated near the centre of the town, adorned with a number of wooden pillars, on which several Gothic ornaments are carved.

Among other public institutions, a Free Grammar School, founded and endowed by the Abbot, William Beams, in the year 1520, is worthy of notice. It is situated in the north-west angle of the church-yard. There are two Alms-houses in the town, endowed by Lady Paulett and Mrs. Ellen Parker, for the maintenance of eleven poor women. In the year 1767, several Sunday Schools for the instruction of poor children, were established in the parish of Burton. An annual subscription of thirty guineas from the Earl and Countess of Uxbridge, the benefactions of the inhabitants of the town, and an annual charity sermon preached for the support of this institution, contributed essentially to its success; and 450 children of both sexes received instruction in eleven schools. An Act of Parliament has been obtained for lighting and paving the streets, without any expense to the inhabitants of Burton, it being defrayed by the income from certain lands and tenements, under the direction of trustees appointed for that purpose.

There are six Hamlets belonging to the parish of Burton, namely, Burton Extra, Brannston, Horninglow, and Stretton, and two in Derbyshire. The commons belonging to these hamlets were inclosed in 1771-2; the arable lands are light and gravelly, and the pastures and meadows level and luxuriant.

The number of freeholders in Burton who voted at the great contested election in 1747 was fifty. According to an accurate survey in October, 1789: Houses Inhabitants. Burton contained 626 2926 Burton Extra 102 553 Total 728 3479 In the year 1801, according to the population returns, Burton contained 738 houses, and 3679 inhabitants; and in 1811, the population had increased to the number of 3979.

The market of Burton, first granted by King John, and confirmed by King Henry III. is held on Thursday; and in consequence of the trade and manufactures of the town, add the opulence of the neighbourhood, it is well attended and supplied with grain, butcher's meat, butter, poultry, &c. There are four annual Fairs held in Burton, by a grant of King Henry 111. The principal lasts six days; during the first five days, more fine horses, particularly of the black breed, are usually exposed to sale than at any other fair in the kingdom. The sixth day is the festival of St. Modwen, (October 29) and is appropriated to the sale of cheese, and to a variety of sports and pastimes. A second fair is held on Ascension Day ; a third on the 5th of April, for cattle; and the fourth, on the 2d of February, (toll-free) for horses, cattle, and merchandize.

CHRONOLOGY OF REMARKABLE EVENTS. In the year 1255, the greatest part of Burton was consumed by an accidental fire. In the 14th year of the reign of Edward II. Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, was at the head of a formidable insurrection against that Prince; and in the following year the King raised a powerful army, and several of the Earl's confederates deserted from him, and went over to the royal standard. The Earl's faithful adherents marched with him first to Gloucester, and thence to Burton-upon-Trent, and so to his castle at Tutbury, about four miles distant from the town. While on his march, the Earl sent a confidential officer into Lancashire to bring up 500 men to his aid; but he conducted the levies to the King's army, and apprized Edward of the Earl's intentions. The King immediately pursued his enemy, first marching to Coventry, and thence to Lichfield, where the two Spensers joined him with all their forces. On the approach of the royal army to Burton, the Earl placed infantry on each side of the bridge, to prevent the King's passage over the Trent. The King then forded the river at Walton, about three miles above the town, which being made known to the Earl, he sallied forth with his troops from Tutbury Castle, in expectation of being joined by his Lancashire auxiliaries. On hearing of their defection, he fled northwards, and was pursued to Pontefract, where he was taken and beheaded. The Abbey of Burton suffered so much by the depredations of the rebels, that the King, in memory of his victory, gave to it the advowsons of the churches of Tatenhill and Hanbury, in this county, which were forfeited to the Crown by the rebellious Earl of Lancaster.

The appearance of the aurora borealis, or northern lights, is mentioned among the memorable events recorded in the annals of Burton. "Mem. On Monday and Tuesday in the mornynges, being the xvth and xvith days of November in the yeare of our Lorde God, one thousand fyve hundreth threescore and fouretene, there were seen in the element, certayne strange lights, whereof some appeared verie fyerie, and terrible to beholde, and stretched downe, as yt seemed, almost to the earthe, and were in the Northe, the Easte, and the Weste. And at those tymes yt was as lighte as if yt had been daye. These lights continued from tenne of the clocke in the nighte untyll breake of the daye, and semed most fearfull in the mornynges after foure of the clocke; and hapned the dayes ymediately after the chaunge of the moone, and the eclipse of the sunne."

In the year 1611, Edward Wightman, of Burton, was burnt at Lichfield, for holding dangerous and blasphemous opinions. During the Civil Wars between King Charles I. and the Parliament, Burton suffered greatly, being several times taken and retaken by the conflicting parties in the year 1643. In December, 1793, a night-watch was first established in Burton. Burton has been occasionally injured by the inundations of the Trent, particularly one in 1771, which overflowed the greatest part of the town; another in 1792; a third in 1795; and a fourth in 1798.

In 1815, a deputation from Burton presented a loyal Address to the Prince Regent, on his arrival at Beaudesert, the seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, upon which occasion the Bailiff (John Dickenson Fowler, Esq.) received the honour of Knighthood.

MANUFACTURES. Leland, in his Itinerary, says that Burton was then famous for ornamental works in alabaster; and this fact is confirmed by Camden. This business has, however, been discontinued for more than a century, though alabaster is still to be found in the neighbourhood of Needwood Forest.

In the 17th century many of the inhabitants of Burton were clothiers, and their kersies were held in great estimation; and some tammies and woollen cloths are now manufactured in this town.

But the chief article of commerce produced in Burton is its Ale, for which it has long been celebrated. The origin of this lucrative business was in the year 1610, when Benjamin Printon began a brewery, and his success induced others to engage in the same business. Hence the trade has gradually risen to its present importance: there are now nine capital breweries in the town, and great quantities of Burton Ale are annually consumed in this country, besides an export trade to a considerable amount to the northern nations of Europe. Catherine II. Empress of Russia, is said to have been immoderately fond of this beverage. The brewers of Burton, in opposition to the common practice, prefer hard water to soft; and though they have the waters of the Trent running by, they universally use that supplied by their pumps. Yet notwithstanding the singularity of this method, their ale is famous for body and strength.

Three cotton factories erected in Burton afford employment to some hundreds of the inhabitants. An extensive manufactory of screws has long been established in the parish of Burton; and the manufacture of hats is also considerable in this town.

The mill mentioned in Domesday-book still exists on an islet, about half a mile below Burton-bridge. In the year 1745 it consisted of three parts, one of which was a corn-mill, another for making wash leather, and the third a forge for refining iron. The corn-mill is now rented of the Marquis of Anglesea, by Messrs. Evans and Wilson; the second is converted into a cotton factory by Messrs. Peele, Yates, and Co.; and the forge has been for some years occupied by the Lloyds, Quakers, of Birmingham, who carry on in it an extensive iron manufactory.

An Act of Parliament was obtained in 1698 for improving the navigation of the river Trent. The Burton Boat Company are proprietors of this navigation from Gainsborough. The Grand Trunk Canal from the Mersey to the Trent runs parallel with the river, with which it forms a communication at the south end of the town. Some jealousies arising between the two companies, occasioned the canal to be extended to Wilden Ferry, parallel with the river, to the detriment of both parties, but for the public good, as the price of tonnage was diminished by this opposition.

Whitmore is a small appurtunance of Burton, and it situated in the meadows about half a mile north of the town. The house, which formerly belonged to the Abbots, was taken down, and a smaller one built for the tenant. Over the parlour-chimney there is still preserved the name of Thomas Feyld, Abbot, curiously embossed in stone.

Shopnall, an ancient grange belonging to the Abbey of Burton, is situated about 1 mile west of the town, upon a bold eminence, above which rises Sinai Park, a summer retreat of the Abbots. The situation is very commanding, and the prospect from it is delightful. There is a chalybeate spring a little below the house.

Horninglow is another hamlet of the parish of Barton. It is an angular hill, which projects into the expanse of meadows near the confluence of the Trent and Dove, and was granted, with the rest of the Abbey lands, at the dissolution of monasteries, to the Paget family. The Marquis of Anglesea is now the principal proprietor. The turnpike-road crosses Horninglow, and the canal passes near it. This hill abounds with gravel, and contains large quantities of very rich marl, variegated with white veins.

Stretton, a hamlet of Burton, is situated a mile north of the town, on the Ikenild-street, and was a place of some note in the time of the Romans. It is flat, the soil gravelly and right, and the land principally meadow and pasture. It is subject to inundations both from the Trent and the Dove. Near Stretton, an acqueduct of twenty three arches conveys the canal over the Dove, the ground being raised for that purpose to the extent of a mile and a quarter in length.