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Kirkby Stephen
Location of parish on undated map by William Mackenzie, scanned by Sarah Reveley. Area around the parish on undated map by William Mackenzie, scanned by Sarah Reveley. Kirkby Stephen is bounded on the East by Brough and Bowes; on the South, by Grinton, Aisgarth, and Sedbergh, all of which (as well as Bowes) are in the county of York; on the West, by Sedbergh, Ravenstondale, and Crosby Garret; and on the North, by Crosby Garret, Musgrave, and Brough

Description & Travel

Nicolson and Burn: The history and antiquities of the counties of Westmorland and Cumberland. 1777. Transcribed by Anne Nichols "The parish of Kirkby Stephen is bounded on the East by the parishes of Brough and Bowes; on the South, by the parishes of Grinton, Aisgarth, and Sedbergh, all of which (as well as Bowes) are in the county of Yrok; on the West, by the parishes of Sedbergh, Ravenstondale, and Crosby Garret; and on the North, by the parishes of Crosby Garret, Musgrave, and Brough: And contains about 600 families, whereof, dissenters 12 [in 1777].

The church was dedicated to St. Stephen; and from thence the town and parish received their denomination. It is a vicarage... The church is a large building, with a lofty tower steeple, and four bells.

Hartley... It would be difficult to form any derivation of this word, as it stands corrupted in the present spelling, frames from the sound only. But the further we go back, the more the true derivation unfolds itself. The famous Sir Andrew, afterwards earl of Carlisle, was surnamed de Harcla; and in a few generations further back, the word was most commonly written Hardclay. And the soil of the place sufficiently indicates the reason of the name. This manor for a long time continued in the name of Hardclay.

Winton probably had its name from some remarkable battle fought there: for win in the Saxon signifies battle; and to win is still in use to denote victory in battle or otherwise. So there is Winchester, Winwick, Winthorpe, and the like.

Kaber... From what original this place derives its name, doth not sufficiently appear. It was always anciently written Kabergh. Bergh, it is well known, means town. Perhaps the other component of the word may have been the name of the owner: for Kay is a name not yet uncommon.

Soulby... The name of this place in ancient time was most commonly written Sulleby: whether from the name of the owner, or how otherwise, we have not found. The chapel of Soulby was built... in the year 1663.

Smardale... Smere is the ancient name of that sort of grass now called clover, and is a word not quite out of use in that respect. And in old times, this place was most commonly written Smeredale. There hath been anciently a chapel, at a little distance from the hall westward; where is a well yet called Chapel-well, which sprang up within the chapel.

Waitby... This place was sometimes anciently written Wadeby, sometimes Waldeby; which seems to indicate its true derivation. Waldever was a name not uncommon; so that Waldeby may probably signify the same as Waldevi locus, or Waldeve's (Waltheof's) seat or habitation.

Nateby... From whence Nateby had its name, we have not found. Perhaps it might be, from the Nativi or bondmen inhabiting there, attendent upon the castle of Pendragon; even as Bondgate was so called from its being the place of habitation of the servile tenants of the castle of Appleby.

Wharton... Wharton was anciently written Wherton, and when transferred into the barbarous latin of those days, Querton; for in the place of the letter W they frequently substitute Q, sometimes G, as when for war they say guerra: But whether this place may have had its name from some battle fought there, can only be a matter of conjecture. The village of Wharton was demolished long ago, to make room for the park and demesne [of the manor]; and the tenants dispersed to Wharton Dikes, about half a mile off, to the south west.


Cemeteries

Monumental inscriptions were transcribed in Westmorland Church Notes by E. Bellasis 1888-89

Census

Returns survive only for the constablewick of Kaber for the 'census' of 1787 and are held at the Kendal Record Office of Cumbria Archives Service. The Record Office reference is WQ/SP/C. They are transcribed in Vital Statistics published by Curwen Archives Trust 1992. ISBN 1897590008.

Census returns are available from the usual sources for 1841-1901.

Transcript and index for 1851 has been published by the Cumbria Family History Society and also in 'North Westmorland - An Index to the 1851 Census' compiled by David Lowis and Barbara Slack.

Church History

The dedication is not known for sure . Sometimes it is ascribed to St Stephen (as in the 1777 extract  at the top of the page).
After renovations in the c19th it may have beenn referred to as St John's

There is a 'Loki' stone of Scandinavian origin near the S door. There are also Norman remains, but much of the church including the nave arcades is C13th. The W tower is Perp. The chancel and chapels are C19th as is also the distinctive classical colonnade at the entrance to the churchyard.

Historical and architectural notes on National Heritage List (English Heritage site).
Photograph(s) and description on VisitCumbria.
Acess and contact details on Church of England site

Th history is described on Britain  Express.

The church was rededicated in 1874. An account in the Penrith Herald is transcribed on Nancy McLaughlin's site.

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Church Records

The parish records and BTs are held at the Kendal Record Office of Cumbria Archives Service. The Record Office reference is WPR77

Baptism registers 1647-1957
Marriage registers 1647-1956
Banns registers 1754-1953
Burial registers 1647-1947
Bishops transcripts 1647-1897

There are transcripts on Nancy McLaughlin's site.

For searching on www.familysearch.org see Jake Prescott's list of IGI batch numbers.

Non-conformist registers:

Kirkby Stephen and Appleby Wesleyan Circuit Registers 1883-1930 bap Kendal RO
Wesleyan 1852-1885 bap Kendal RO
Kirkby Stephen Congregational 1844-1932 bap
1868-1878 mar
1876-1880 bur
Kendal RO

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Directories

The details for the parish from the Parson & White's Directory for 1829 are transcribed on Edenlinks site.

Entries from the Post Office Directory 1858 are on Nancy McLaughlin's site.

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Description and Travel

Kirkby Stephen is described on thecumbriadirectory.com

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History

"Kirkby Stephen, a noted Market-Town, situate upon the River Eden. The
Market is weekly upon Friday, and the Fairs on St. Mark's Day, and the
Morrow after, and another on St. Luke's Day and the Morrow after. Here is a
Free-School founded and endowed by the Family of Wharton, of which we shall
speak in its Place.

Heartley-Castle, another Seat of the Musgraves, more antient than the former at
Harcla-Castle. We find nothing material of the Family relating to their Seat here,
but this, That Thomas Musgrave of Queens College, Oxford, who was created Doctor of
Divinity in 1685, Octob. 10 was Son of Sir Philip Musgrave, Bart. Of this Place, who
was a Person of signal Loyalty to King Charles I. in his Troubles. This Doctor
became Archdeacon of Carlisle in 1669, was installed Prebendary of Durham, July 12,
1675. as also Prebendary of Chichester, Nov. 10 1681, and at length Dean of Carlisle
upon the Promotion of Dr. Thomas Smith to the Episcopal See in 1684. He died in the
Beginning of April 1686. The Manor of Hertley, 13 Rich. II was the Estate of Roger
Lord Clifford 4th, who died then possessed of it, and left it to his Son and Heir Thomas.

Pendragon-Castle, antiently the Possession and Seat of the Lords
Clifford; for Robert Lord Clifford died possessed of it 7 Edward II. and
leaving it to Roger his Son, then but fifteen Years old, the Custody of this
Castle, and some others, was committed by the King, Edw. II. to Guy de
Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, Henry Piercy and Barth. de Bedlesmere. Being of
Age, he was drawn into that conspiracy which Thomas, Earl of Lancaster,
formed against that King and his Favourites, and being taken Prisoner at
Burrowbrigg, was beheaded at York. His Brother Robert, notwithstanding,
inherited his Honour and Estate, and left this Castle to his Posterity; for
Roger Lord Clifford 4th died seised of it 13 Rich. II. and left it to his
son Thomas. It was, when in its Prime, a very strong Building, the Walls
being four Yards in Thickness, with Battlements upon them; but Time, and the
Neglect of the Owners had brought it to little better, than a great Heap of
Stones; but it continued still in the same Family of Cliffords; and about
the Year 1660, the most noble Lady Anne Clifford, Countess Dowager of
Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery, repaired this ancient Habitation of her
Ancestors, with three other Castles which she had in this County; and
removing frequently from one to the other, kept Hospitality, and so diffused
her Charity all over the Country. The river Eden runs close by his Castle
on the East-Side, and on the other Sides are great Trenches, which look as
if the Founder of it had intended to draw the Water into them, and so
encompass it with a Moat; but the Attempt proved ineffectual, which gave an
Occasion to an old rhyme used by the People near it.

Let Pendragon do what he can, Eden will run, where Eden ran.

Wateby, a Moiety of which was the Possession of Roger Lord Clifford 4th, of which he died
possessed 13 Rich. II. and left it with many other Estates to Thomas his Heir.

Wharton, whose Manor-house, called Wharton-Hall, hath for many Ages, even before any Records
yet discovered, been the Seat of the antient Family of Whartons, and is still their Property.
The Family was of great Reputation before it was ennobled; for Richard de Wharton was Knight
of the Shire for this County, 5 Hen. V. but otherwise it lay in Obscurity, till the Reign of
King Henry VIII. when Sir Thomas Wharton, Knt. being the Governor of the Town and Castle of
Carlisle, and Warden of the Marches, being assisted by Sir William Musgrave, put an Army of
Scots of Fifteen thousand to flight, only with Three hundred Men; who appearing on a Sudden
upon them, they supposed the Duke of Norfolk at hand with a great Army, and fled. This Victory
was gained at a Place near Carlisle, called Solem-mosse. King Henry was so much pleased with
his surprising Conduct, that he made him a Baron (says Cambden); but Dugdale tells us, that it
was King Edw. VI. advanced him to that Honour, and for that, and some other signal Services,
granted him an Augmentation to his paternal Coat of Arms, viz. a Border engrailed, Or, charged
with Legs of Lions in Saltire, Gules, armed, Azure. He was succeeded in his Honour by Thomas
his Son, who being forty-eight Years of Age at his Father's Death, did not survive him long,
but left a Son for his Successor, viz.

Philip, Lord Wharton, who by Frances, the Daughter of Henry, Earl of Cumberland, had two sons,
George and Thomas, but both of them dying in his Lifetime, George without Heirs, and Thomas
married to Philadelphia, the Daughter of Robert, Earl of Monmouth. He had by her two Sons,
Philip and Thomas, of whom Philip succeeded his Grandfather, Anno 1625, but was not of Age,
till Anno 1634. He had three Wives, but by the Second, Jane, Daughter of Arthur Gooding of
Upper Winchenden in Buckinghamshire had Issue, Thomas Lord Wharton, who being one of the first
of the Noblemen that went over to the Prince of Orange at the Revolution, was, as soon as the
Prince was settled on the Throne, made Comptroller or his Majesty's Houshold, and sworn of his
Privy Council, and after made Lord Lieutenant of this County. In the Reign of Queen ANNE,
Anno 5. He was created Viscount Winchendon, and Earl of Wharton; and in 1715, Marquis, by King
George I. In 1709, he was sent Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. He had by his second Wife, the
Daughter of Adam Loftus, named Lucy, then Baron Lisburn in Ireland, his Son and Successor in
Honour and Estate, Philip, whom his Majesty K. George I. created Duke of Wharton. He hath
married the Daughter of Lieutenant General Holmes, and is now living, but hath been for some
Time in foreign Parts, and is said to have changed his Religion.

Wynton, a Manor belonging to the Barony of Appleby, which was given by King John, Reg. 4.
to Robert de Vipont, at first during Pleasure only, but afterwards to him and his Heirs by
Idonea his Wife, Daughter and Heir of John de Buefli, Lord of Tickhill. In his Family it
continued, till his Descendant, Robert de Vipont, joining with Montfort, Earl of Leicester,
took up Arms against King Henry III. Reg. 49. and being slain in the Battle of Evesham,
forfeited his Lands and Estates to the Crown; whereupon that King gave them to Roger Clifford
and Roger de Leybourne, for their laudable Services at that Time performed, together with the
Custody of his two Daughters and Coheirs, Isabel and Idonea; who being after married to the
said Rogers, the King remitted to them their Father's Forfeiture, and so their Heirs inherited
them. This Lordship, upon the Division, came to Roger Lord Clifford, and his Son Robert dying
possessed of it 7 Edw. II. this Manor, with some other Estates, was assigned to Maud his Widow
for her Dowry, and after her Decease passed to her Son Roger, whose Descendants enjoyed it
divers Successions; for Roger Lord Clifford 4th died possessed of it 13 Rich. II. And left it
to his Son Thomas, Ec."

Magna Britannica et Hibernia.Volume 6: Westmorland by Thomas Cox (Vicar of Bromfield, Essex) 45 pages, printed in 1731.
Transcription by Sarah Reveley,  Joan Fisher and Lisl Schoenwald. (Rootsweb Westmorland Listmembers)  (c)  2003

British History Online provides Kirkby Stephen from The Later Records relating to North Westmorland by John F. Curwen (1932)

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Poor Houses / Poor Law

Details of the East Ward Poor Law Union are given on the websites of Ross Brett (internet archive) and Peter Higginbotham.

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Population

1641/2 662+(est)
1671 902+(est)
1801 1677+

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Taxation

Hearth Tax records for 1674 Kirkby Stephen transcribed on Edenlinks.
Hearth Tax records for 1674 Kaber (Kirkby Stephen) transcribed on Edenlinks.
Hearth Tax records for 1674 Nateby (Kirkby Stephen) transcribed on Edenlinks.
Hearth Tax records for 1674 Smardale (Kirkby Stephen) transcribed on Edenlinks.
Hearth Tax records for 1674 Waitby (Kirkby Stephen) transcribed on Edenlinks.
Hearth Tax records for 1674 Wharton Dikes (Kirkby Stephen) transcribed on Edenlinks.
Hearth Tax records for 1674 Winton (Kirkby Stephen) transcribed on Edenlinks.
Window Tax records for 1777
Kirkby Stephen transcribed on Edenlinks.
Window Tax records for 1777 Kaber transcribed on Edenlinks.
Window Tax records for 1777 Naitby transcribed on Edenlinks.
Window Tax records for 1777 Smardale transcribed on Edenlinks.
Window Tax records for 1777 Waitby transcribed on Edenlinks.
Window Tax records for 1777 Wharton transcribed on Edenlinks.
Window Tax records for 1777 Winton transcribed on Edenlinks.

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Last updated: February 2012 Dave Huddart