‘Haldon’ log-book, 1920-1942

Document housed in the archives of University of Hull
(Maritime Historical Studies Centre)

Transcribed by David Carter 2020
(great-grandson of William Kingdon Slade)

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Brief history of the ‘Haldon’:

Above (left): The Haldon rigged as a two-masted ketch, painted by W.J. Slade.

Above (right): Photograph of the Haldon rigged as a three-masted schooner.

The coasting schooner ‘Haldon’ traded from Appledore for over 20 years, owned and run by the Slade family. First by William Kingdon Slade (1865-1942), and then by his son William James Slade (1892-1982), whose autobiography ‘Out of Appledore’ telling of his life at sea, was published in 1959.

She was named ‘Haldon’ after the Haldon Hills in South Devon where the timbers used in her construction originated. A gale in 1891 brought down many large trees in the Haldon Forest – these were bought by Hawke Brothers of Plymouth and taken to their yard at Cremyll Street in Devonport to season. They were eventually used to build two vessels, one of which was called the Haldon. Work started on her in July 1892, and she was launched in March 1893.

Her first owners were at Topsham where the boat was registered. In 1902 she was sold to the Orkney Islands, and worked in northern waters until she was laid up at Kirkwall in 1914. In 1916 she resumed work when freight prices rose, and in 1920 she was sold to the Hook Shipping Co. of Haverfordwest.

In 1922, she was bought by W.K. Slade of Appledore for the sum of £1,200, and registered at Barnstaple on 27th July 1922. Her gross tonnage was 113 tons and her registered tonnage was 76 tons. She had been fitted with a 50 horse-power engine. The log book shows her full movements for the Slade family the next 20 years, until she was sold.

After the war she was bought by Norwegian owners and converted to a fully powered motor ship with accommodation in a raised after structure. She was then trading in Icelandic waters and renamed the ‘Shetland’. She disappears from the shipping registers in 1963. Her final fate is unknown.

The log book of the Haldon was given by W.J.Slade to Basil Greenhill, who on his death bequeathed it to the University of Hull’s archives. It consists of a tabulated book with columns as shown on the transcript below.

The log book commences in Feb 1911, and records journeys between Kirkwall, Tweedmouth, Leith, Scrabster, Castlehill, Grangemouth, Sanday (Orkney), Amble, Thurso, Eady (Orkney), Perth, Weymss, Wick, Stronsay, Shapinsay, Bridgeness, Invergordon, South Shields and Liverpool, including the cargoes that she carried. She became laid up at Kirkwall on 14th October 1914.

The Haldon commenced work again on 9th September 1916 and although still registered at Kirkwall, over the next two years she traded to Sanday, Troon, Irvine, Glasgow, Birkenhead, Swansea, Cardiff, Milford Haven, Fowey, Bristol, Avonmouth; Lisahally, Kilkeel and Dublin (in Ireland); Silloth and Maryport (in Cumbria); and St Brieuc, Rouen, Honfleur, Morlaix, Cherbourg and Isigny-sur-Mer (in France), ending up at Braunton in October 1918.

On 24th March 1920, she became registered at Barnstaple, owned by the Hook Shipping Co. of Haverfordwest, under the control of her master H.J. Norman. This transcript includes her voyages from 1920 onwards, but details of her earlier voyages 1911-1918 are contained in the original document.

Some entries from ‘Out of Appledore’ have been cross-referenced in the transcript, to give fuller information on what happened on some of her voyages.

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Log Book of the Haldon…
 

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Excerpts from ‘Out of Appledore’ by William James Slade, 1959.
Page numbers refer to 1st edition copy…

OOA-#001 - Page 68: In July 1922 we purchased the ketch Haldon 175 tons. I left the Millom Castle to take charge of her, and went to Haverfordwest with my father to take her to Appledore for survey to insure with the Braunton Shipowners Mutual Insurance Association. She had a very heavy mainsail as a ketch and father and I had hard work to set it. It was a double-barrel winch job from the commencement of the operation, but we finally arrived home in safety.

OOA-#002 - Page 68: After a few days we chartered with clay for London and back to Bideford with cement. My brother came with me and a young man from Ilfracombe who made himself useful with the engine, a great asset, as driving the engine was a job no one cared for when at sea.

OOA-#003 - Page 69: It came dirty south-west by the time we got to Anvil Point, so it was decided to run up inside the Isle of Wight for the night, anchoring off Cowes. The next morning, he (my father) got up early and hurried us all to get going again. However, we did have a very nice trip and finally arrived in Cherry Garden Pier London, where we discharged into barges. After discharging we shifted to Swanscombe and were soon on our way out again. We had a lovely north north-west wind all the way down channel and after 3 days, sailing nearly all the way, we arrived at Bideford.

OOA-#004 - Page 69: There I expected Father would leave us, but, oh no, he wanted mother to make a trip and I found myself going over the Bar a few days later as a passenger ship, with my mother and sister added to the list. Of course mother enjoyed it, she was a good sailor and could adapt herself to conditions as she found them.

OOA-#005 - Page 69: We got to Lydney the next day and loaded for Gweek. This is a very shallow place about six or seven miles above Helford and frequented by barges. We got a pilot at Helford but stuck in the river about a quarter of a mile from the quay. This was not the fault of the pilot, she was in the proper channel but there wasn't water enough even with a high spring tide, but Father had been there several times before and said: "We'll soon lighten her!" We found an old condemned barge, just about hanging together, but she was sunk. We got her freed of water as the tide went out, chinked up all the seams and bad places with oakum and on the next tide dropped her down river alongside our ship, took out about 15 tons from the after hatch, which was all we dared to put in the barge in her rotten condition, floated it up to the quay alongside of our ship and hove it out of her before the barge had time to sink.

OOA-#006 - Page 69: On the way down (out of the river) we had to encounter some nasty bends. I was at the wheel taking orders from the self-appointed pilot (Father), who stood on the knightheads shouting his orders. Mr brother [George] was standing by me and I said to him in an ordinary tone: "I don't believe he knows where he is going". And Father back from nearly a hundred feet away: "Oh don't I? You do as you are told." We both looked at each other and laughed. He was over sixty and his hearing was wonderful. Well he took her down all right and we never touched anywhere. Page 71: During our stay there (at Gweek), one of our ships, the Heather Bell, was caught in Coverack in an easterly gale. She parted her moorings, and a phone message came from the Master for assistance. We loaded a lorry up with big hausers which we carried on board Haldon, took them to Coverack and re-moored the Heather Bell. We also used the chain cables, but she went through the lot after pulling all the big granite posts out and some of the quay with them. She eventually went ashore just outside the piers on rocks to the north side of the harbour and became a total wreck. Father went home, and the mate of the Heather Bell joined the Haldon, where he continued for quite a long time.

OOA-#007 - Page 70: We chartered from Par to Runcorn which meant going from Helford empty. Mother had gone home but we couldn't get rid of Father. He was enjoying himself and he didn't want to go home till the weather got colder.

OOA-#008 - Page 70: We made a good run to Runcorn, but the next thing I knew the owner had chartered her for Gweek again. I wasn't too pleased about this, but it had to be faced, so we settled down to make the best of it. When we left, we encountered a strong south-west wind and went to Holyhead windbound. We laid there four or five days comfortably enough. When we left Holyhead it was still a head wind we had to face and, of course, the engine stopped. Father again was saving those halfpennies.

OOA-#009 - Page 72: The Haldon received weather damage on a voyage to Bridgwater. The gaff topsail burst and we had to send it down on deck for repairs which the mate and I managed alright, but she was a heavy ketch and served her sails and gear bad if we met any hard weather. In addition I found the main mast was slightly rotten in the eyes of the rigging, which meant lifting the rigging and trestle trees to thoroughly examine it. I got in communication with my father on the matter and we agreed to load bricks for Bideford where the examination could take place.

OOA-#010 - Page 72: After discharge we shifted to Harris' Yard, Appledore, when we found a new mast was required if she remained a ketch. I got busy with my rule and drafted out the Haldon rigged as a three masted fore and aft schooner, with pole masts. Page 73: She was a great success, sailed well and handled well, light as well as loaded. Her gear lasted three times loner and she was a far better sea boat. We made many passages without using the motor at all.

OOA-#011 - Page 73: We did quite a lot of trade to London with pottery clay, which was a heavy cargo, but the rig made if a much easier job for the ship and lighter work for the crew.

OOA-#012 - Page 73: On one particular voyage I had to leave Par light for Penryn in order to pick up tin concentrates for London. The loading berth at Penryn was very shallow and it needed the top of a high spring tide to get out of it with a full cargo. It was only two days to the top of the spring and a strong south-west wind blowing against us. The chances of getting down against it were slim indeed, but I determined to test her out and if I failed, to run back to Fowey. It was dark when we left, but for a ship with no ballast she was wonderful. We anchored in Falmouth Harbour a few hours afterwards. When we got to Penryn on the next tide my ship-broker friend Mr N.S. Furneaux was agreeably surprised. He could not imagine how we managed to get down in such adverse circumstances, but through this we had a quick turn round and a few days after discharged in London.

OOA-#013 - Page 74: It was now the mid nineteen twenties. Freights were getting scarce and it was gradually becoming more difficult to keep running. It was a case of survival of the fittest and life became harder as the months rolled by. I think the next few years were about the worst in my experience.

OOA-#014 - Page 76: On one voyage to Moorhill Quay (Youghal River) I had to catch the spring tide. It was fine calm weather and the motor had to be kept going somehow. I fitted six big end bearings that trip, no sleep or rest for three days. I arrived in the evening, sent a telegram home from Youghal and then set to about the engine because it was our last tide up the river on the following day. I worked all that night stripping the engine to the shaft, cleaned the banjo oilers and built it up again. We got to our berth all right, but completely worn out body and soul.

OOA-#015 - Page 75: We loaded at Lydney for Ballinacurra in Cork Harbour. On the way down channel the engine suddenly stopped with an awful smash. When I went to see the cause, I found the cylinder and crank-case gone and also the bottom part of the bottom part of the piston broken. We were now off Swansea and my mate advised me to get across the channel and in over the Bar for repairs. As usual we disagreed and I replied: "I've sailed it before and I can do it again, so we shall finish the voyage under sail. Several days later we sighted the Irish coast off Dongaroon [..account of fixing engine here..] and we anchored in Cork Harbour the following midnight.

OOA-#016 - Page 76: In due course we sailed for home to have our repairs done. The engine never stopped from Cork Harbour to Appledore...

OOA-#017 - Page 75: Once we took a cargo at Antwerp and back to Exeter from Willebroeck with a cargo of plate glass.

OOA-#018 - Page 77: Freights were low, and it was a struggle to keep going. Just after this my mate decided to retire as he was entitled to the 'old age pension'. I was left with two boys and I now arranged for a cousin to join me as mate, but he couldn't get to me for a week or two, and therefore sent his boy to fill the gap, so I went off to Lydney with the three lads, none of whom could take a watch and could only steer in fine weather.

OOA-#019 - Page 77: We sailed from Lydney to Clonakilty and it can easily be understood that sleep was out of the question as far as I was concerned, but we arrived all right and after discharging loaded oats for Newport.

OOA-#020 - Page 77: Arrangements were put in hand to purchase a new Ellwe engine for the Haldon, but we kept going until the new engine was delivered at Messrs P.K. Harris yard for quick installation. We got home at Christmas time ready for this work to be carried out. It was 64 b.h.p. Ellwe, I wanted a 90 b.h.p., but I only owned one-third of the ship and I was overruled. This meant I was often behind others in an engine race and I was forced to drive it hard to compete with those who had bigger power.

OOA-#021 - Page 82: I took on a contract to run coal from Ely Harbour to Padstow for a period of three months. It was a low freight, but we did two a week sometimes, if weather was fine, but again sometimes we were a fortnight on one. On the whole it was just a bare living.

OOA-#022 - Page 83: One particular voyage caused not a little worry. I had discharged cement at Exeter and a cargo of barytes was offering for West Bank (Runcorn). The Haldon was far from being a strong ship and barytes was a heavy cargo, but I made up my mind to risk it, hoping I wouldn't be caught in bad weather to strain her unduly. We got to Falmouth windbound, then a fine day appeared. The wind freshened westerly and she put her knightheads under water more than a few times before we eventually rounded Lands End and squared away for the Smalls. When we kept away to run up the St. George's Channel the wind died away and it became smooth. [..long account here of the vessel springing a leak and having to be continually pumped, before the hole was found and repaired..].

OOA-#023 - Page 90: The hardest period of the slump between the two world wars was between 1934 and 1938. The cut in freights was un-necessary and caused chaos among coastal shipowners. There were not enough cargoes to go round. Wages in the dockyard fell to 38s.6d per week in Messrs R Cock & Son's yard, but P.K. Harris & Sons refused to cut lower than £2.5s per week. Harris's kept going with great difficulty and often took on work just to keep the yard open. The Haldon was lying off the yard with nothing to do, and Father and I stopped to talk to Fred Harris. [We agreed to] stiffen up the Haldon with a couple of nine inch oak baulks but said we must wait until we earn it. Fred Harris said "I must keep the men in work, and I'll give you a price to see if we can arrange it." The work was agreed to be undertaken for the sum of £36. They did the work in quick time, I feel sure that P.K. Harris & Sons made no profit whatsoever on the job, but the yard remained open, and that was the main object.

OOA-#024 - Page 84: We got a contract from Ely Harbour, Cardiff, to Padstow. That winder was a wild one and we didn't do very well, only just keeping the wolf from the door. I earner very little cash for myself.

OOA-#025 - Page 91: We came in from an Irish port empty intending to load clay for the Mersey. When we got to Bideford Bay it was blowing hard... we hove in to Clovelly Roads to wait for the tide, and our engine started giving a bit of trouble... A heavy squall struck the ship and veering northerly... we had to get out of Clovelly Roads. ...the sudden jerk caused the mast to break about seven feet above the main rigging... Things were getting desperate any my crew were not practical seamen... We came in over the tail... and when we passed Appledore Quay I expected some assistance from the hoveller [an unlicensed pilot or boatman] I usually employed, but it was Sunday and no-one came. We anchored off Newquay Ridge off Harris's yard, with two anchors [..long account..].

OOA-#026 - Page 93: Then came another catastrophe. I had discharged scrap in Port Talbot, and as usual found difficulty in getting a freight. We sailed in the evening for home and it was dark when we got clear of Port Talbot... I had been off deck about half an hour when I heard my mate shout, "Oh! my God!" I reached the wheel as we struck a light oil tanker stem on into her port side. The crew were taking to the boat without bothering where I was. I yelled at them to stop lowering the boat, which I steered our ship clear of the other. When I went to ascertain the extent of the damage, I got a shock. She was completely shattered down to the light water mark. If she had been loaded, there is no doubt she would have sunk like a stone. [..Long account - got ship home, badly damaged, surveyed by Insurers, damage estimated at £760 to repair, but insured for £600, so stated to be a Constructive Total Loss. Received £592.10s compensation. Bought vessel back from insurers for £90 and repaired it themselves..]. When the Haldon came out of dock, she was a much better ship than before.
[Photo shows the damaged Haldon moored against Appledore Quay]

OOA-#027 - Page 96: We made several voyages to Ireland and then the Second World War broke out. During the phoney period it made little or no difference to us, but when the minefield was laid across the St George's Channel, some of the ships didn't care about going up by the Tusker and down close to shore as then now had to do to reach Ireland. It wasn't so bad in summer but when winter started to set up, it was a difficult route for what was practically a sailing vessel. The freights, of course, jumped up to double and soon it became a paying business all through.

OOA-#028 - Page 96: With Christmas over, we started again in the Irish trade and got quite used to the Tusker route.

OOA-#029 - Page 98: I was discharging at Glandore in the County of Cork when I got a telegram relayed from my father at Appledore. It stated, "Haldon requisitioned by H.M. Government for balloon barrage purposes, proceed to Appledore for inspection." I was chartered to go to Lydney to load a cargo for Glandore again at a rate of freight I had only dreamed of for many years, and I resented the idea of losing an obvious chance to make a bit of money. It didn't take me long to see my way out of that difficulty [..long narrative: Telegram had been sent to W.J.Slade's father W.K.Slade in Appledore, who no longer owned the Haldon..]. I proceeded to Lydney to fulfil my charter. When we landed, being neap tides I was able to go home for the weekend. There I found all the requisitioned ships about to be surveyed [..told Admiralty officer they had made a mistake, and that requisition was sent to the wrong person..]. After some argument I am my ship were rejected. The rest were all taken except the Kathleen & May and the Emma Louise.

OOA-#030 - Page 100: I found my sight was suffering and the knocking about I had received in an air raid at Avonmouth hadn't helped. [This raid appears to have taken place on 25th Nov 1940, and hit the Shell Canning Factory at Avonmouth Docks].

OOA-#031 - Page 102: [With failing eyesight...] I realised that my sight was not equal to the job and it was time to get out. We loaded in Swansea for Bideford. I thought a lot about it, and finally asked Bill [the ship's mate: William Cox] if he would like to take charge of the Haldon. He was, of course, very pleased and so in September 1943 [sic], I gave up my berth as master to a younger and much fitter man.

OOA-#032 - Page 104: I had disposed of the Haldon. We had bought her in 1923 for £1,200. I sold her in 1944 for £2,500. She was always a trouble, but I earned a good living in her and sold her at a profit. I had no regrets.

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