National Gazetteer (1868) - Christchurch

"CHRISTCHURCH, a parish, market town, parliamentary borough, and seaport, in the Ringwood division of the hundred of Christchurch and liberty of Westover, in the county of Hants, 24 miles S.W. of Southampton, and 101 from London byroad. The Southampton and Dorchester branch of the South-Western railway has a station at Christchurch Road, about 72 miles from the town. Christchurch was called by the Saxons Twyneham, Twyn-ambozerne and Tweon-ea, in consequence of its situation between the rivers Avon and Stour, whose streams meet a little below the town, and fall into the sea at Christ-church Bay, forming a harbour which is accessible only to small ships, and that at high water, which, however, occurs twice every tide. It is a sub-port to Southampton, and was at an early period a place of considerable importance in respect of its situation with regard to the Isle of Wight and the coast of France.

Roman and British remains have been found in the neighbourhood; but the first historical mention of it occurs in the Saxon Chronicle, where it is spoken of as the place to which Ethelwold retired during his revolt against his cousingerman, Edward the Elder. In the Domesday Book it is described as a royal manor and borough, containing 21 messuages, and paying an annual tax of 6d. The manor afterwards passed to the Montacutes, earls of Salisbury, who rebuilt the magnificent church in the 15th century, and it continued in their possession till the time of the famous Margaret Countess of Salisbury, who was beheaded by Henry VIII. in her 70th year. It afterwards passed through various hands till 1790, when it was purchased by the Right Hon. George Rose, whose family hold the royalties of the rivers Avon and Stour at this part of their course.

The town, which is increasing, is well supplied with water, but indifferently lighted and paved. It contains a branch bank, two breweries, and several manufactories for watch fusee chains, in which about 500 persons, chiefly women and children, are employed. The local affairs of the town are managed by a mayor, recorder, and burgesses, assisted by a town clerk; but the judicial affairs are in the hands of the county magistrates. Previous to the Reform Bill the borough returned two members to parliament, but since then only one. The electoral district contains about 5,332 acres, with 1,837 inhabited houses, and a population, according to the census of 1861, of 9,386, against 7,476 in 1851, showing an increase of no less than 1,911 in the decennial period. It is the head of a Poor-law Union, of a County Court district, and a petty sessions town, the county magistrates holding their meetings here every second Monday in the month. Courts leet and baron are also held for the manor.

The parish includes the chapelry of Holdenhurst, and the tythings of Bare, Hinton-Admiral, Hurn, Parley, Iford, Tuckton, Winkton, and Burton. The living is a vicarage* in the diocese of Winchester, value with the curacy of Holdenhurst, to which it is annexed, £166, in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Winchester. There are five other churches, all of which are perpetual curacies That of Bransgore, value £73, in the patronage of T. Jesson, Esq.; Hinton-Admiral, value £72, in the patronage of Sir G. Gervis and the vicar alternately; Bournemouth, value £60, in the patronage of Sir G. Gervis; Highcliffe, in the patronage of Earl Canning; and Pokesdown, value £60, in the patronage of the vicar.

The parish church is a very spacious and remarkable edifice, having much the character of a cathedral, and was once the monastic church. It is a large cruciform structure, 311 feet long, with a fine embattled tower at the W. end, rising to the height of 120 feet. It consists of a nave with aisles, choir with aisles, a Lady chapel and transepts, with chapels attached, the most interesting of which is the mortuary chapel, erected by Margaret Plantagenet, Countess of Salisbury, during her life. This latter building is an exceedingly good specimen of the florid perpendicular style, with a richly carved roof of fan tracery. The church itself is of the later and decorated styles of Norman architecture, with examples of the perpendicular in the choir, and a double row of massive Norman pillars in the nave, which is 118 feet long. The interior contains one of the finest sculptured altar-pieces in England, representing the genealogy of Christ; and also several monumental effigies.

Among others may be mentioned one by Sir Francis Chantrey, and another by Flaxman, to the late Viscountess Fitzharris, in which that lady is represented teaching her children the Scriptures. The designs of the stalls and seats of the priory chancel exhibit a series of satirical and grotesque carvings. At various times during the present century this venerable pile has been repaired, and to a great extent restored. Of the other priory buildings, the only portion left is the lodge, a little to the S. of the church. The first foundation of the priory, originally dedicated to the Holy Trinity, is involved in obscurity; but Camden states that it was in early Saxon times founded on an ancient heathen temple. In Edward the Confessor's reign, the priory contained one prior and 24 canons, and afterwards fell into the hands of Ralph Flambard, Bishop of Durham, upon whom it was bestowed by William II. and who rebuilt the church, dedicating it to Christ.

It was on this occasion that the town assumed its present appellation of Christchurch, instead of its ancient name, Twyneham. This circumstance is thus accounted for by the monkish legend which relates the history of the building of the church. " In order to expedite so good a work, Heaven aided the bishop with supernatural assistance, a supernumerary workman being always observed during the hours of labour, though at the times of refreshment and receiving wages only the stated number appeared. By his aid everything prospered till the fabric was nearly finished, when on raising a large beam to a particular situation where it was intended to be fixed, it was found to be too short. No remedy appearing, the embarrassed workmen retired to their dwellings. On returning to the church the ensuing morning, they discovered that the beam had been placed in its right position, and was now extended a foot longer than was requisite. Speechless with surprise, the additional workman recurred to their thoughts, and on recovering their tongues, they agreed that no other than our Saviour could have thus assisted them; and on this account, concludes the story, was the edifice dedicated to Christ." The miraculous beam is still pointed out by the finger of credulity, though but a small portion of the original structure remains, the greater part of the present edifice having been rebuilt in the 15th century.

After the fall of Bishop Flambard from power, the priory and its possessions were granted to Baldwin, son of Richard de Rivers, in Henry L's time, by whom the order was changed from secular to regular canons. According to Speed, the annual revenue of the priory, at the Dissolution, was £544 0s.; but Dugdale says £317 7s. 9d. It was afterwards granted by Henry VIII. to the inhabitants for a parochial church, when only one book, "Leges aliquot Regam, Saxonice", was found in the library. The Roman Catholics have a chapel, and there are Independent and Wesleyan places of worship, the former having attached to it large school-rooms for boys and girls. There are likewise National, British, and infant schools, besides an endowed grammar school. Connected with the church are several charities: Clingan's gift for apprenticing poor boys: average income about £128; Admiral Brown's gift, income £80, for the poor; Magdalene charity, formerly a hospital for lepers, but now distributed to the poor-income about £58; and several others, the income of which amounts to £80.

On the site of the ancient priory is a house, which in 1817 was the temporary residence of the late king of the French, Louis Philippe; and near it stand the ruins of the old cattle, a portion of the keep or citadel and of the state apartments, which alone remain. In the immediate vicinity of the town, about 1½ mile to the N., at a place called St. Catherine's Hill, may be traced the lines of several ancient entrenchments, also an exploratory camp, with some mounds and barrows scattered round it. The market day is Monday; and fairs are held on Trinity Thursday and October 17th, for horses and sheep. "BLACKWATER, a village in the parish and hundred of Christchurch, in the county of Southampton, 2 miles from Christchurch. It is on the border of Dorsetshire, on the banks of the small river Blackwater. "BOURNEMOUTH, a village in the parish and hundred of Christchurch, New Forest division of the county of Southampton, 4½ miles to the W. of the Christchurch station of the London and South-Western railway, 17 from Lymington, and 5 miles N.E. from Poole, its post town. It is seated in a pleasant spot near the border of Dorsetshire, on the coast of Poole Bay, and is a favourite bathing-place. It was founded by Sir G. Gervis, Bart. The living is a perpetual curacy* in the diocese of Winchester, value £50, in the patronage of the late Sir G. Gervis. The church, founded in 1844, is in the middle pointed style, and is dedicated to St. Peter. It was enlarged in 1851, 1855, and 1859.

There are chapels belonging to the Independents and the Scotch Church. The former, a handsome stone structure in the Gothic style, was opened in March, 1859, and cost about £2,000. The National school was erected in 1850, and is supported by voluntary contributions. Brick-making is carried on to a small extent; but the village, which contains some handsome and well-stocked shops, is mainly supported by the gentry, who resort to it as a fashionable and healthful retreat, equally enjoyable in summer and winter, owing to its sheltered situation, and the commanding views it enjoys of the Isle of Purbeck, Corfe Castle, the Isle of Wight, and the Needles.

The town contains a splendid stone building, called the Sanatorium (opened in 1855, for convalescent consumptive patients, and supported by voluntary contributions), baths, library, and reading-rooms, and some good hotels. The surrounding scenery is rich and varied, especially from West Cliff, and there are many seats of the gentry in the neighbourhood. A small newspaper, the Bournemouth Visitors' Directory, is published fortnightly.

"BRANSGORE, a village in the parish of Christchurch, hundred, union, and County Court district of Christchurch, in the county of Southampton, 6 miles to the N.E. of Christchurch, and 6 from Ringwood, its post town. Christchurch-Road is the nearest railway station. The population are principally employed in agriculture and in brick-making, for which this locality is famous. The living is a perpetual curacy in the diocese of Winchester, worth £120, in the patronage of the trustees of the late T. Jesson, Esq. The church, which is in the perpendicular style, with a tower and spire, was erected in 1823, at the cost of £2,700, which in part was defrayed by the Parliamentary Commissioners. It has a painted window in the chancel, and contains 280 free sittings. Near the church is the parsonage-house; a neat brick. building, erected in 1844, and the National school, supported by voluntary contributions. The principal residences are Beech douse, the residence of Henry Castleman, Esq.; Heathfield Lodge, the seat of Lady Bingham; and Harrow Lodge, of W. P. Jesson, Esq.

"BURE, a tything in the parish and hundred of Christchurch, in the county of Southampton, 2 miles to the E. of Christchurch. It is situated on the coast of Christchurch Bay.

"BURTON, a tything in the parish and hundred of Christchurch, in the county of Southampton, 1 mile to the N. of Christchurch. "HERON, (or Hern, West), a hamlet in the parish of Christchurch, hundred of Christchurch, county Hants, 4 miles N.W. of Christchurch, and 5 S. of the Kingwood railway station. It is situated on the river Stour, near Heron Common. In the vicinity is Heron Court, the seat of the Earl of Malmesbury, noted for its gallery of paintings and portraits, brought from Park Place. "HINTON, (or Hinton Admiral), a chapelry in the parish and hundred of Christchurch, county Hants, 4 miles N.E. of Christchurch. "HURN, a tything in the parish of Christchurch, county Hants, 2 miles from Christchurch. "IFORD, (or Iver), a tything in the parish of Christchurch, liberty of Westover, county Hants, 2 miles N.W. of Christchurch. It contains the divisions of Iford, Tuckton, and Wick. "MUDDIFORD, a village in the parish and hundred of Christchurch, county Hants, 1½ mile E. by S. of Christchurch. It is a .small watering-place situated on the northern bank of the mouth of the river Avon, which here falls into Christchurch Bay. "PARLEY, a tything in the parish of Christchurch, county Hants, 5 miles N.W. of Christchurch. "STREET, a tything in the parish of Christchurch, county Hants, near Christchurch. "TUCKTON, a tything in the parish of Christchurch, liberty of Westover, county Hants, near Christchurch. "WINKTON, a tything in the parish of Christchurch, county Hants, 3 miles N. of Christchurch, on the river Avon."

[Description(s) from The National Gazetteer of Great Britain and Ireland (1868) - Transcribed by Colin Hinson ©2003]