National Gazetteer (1868) - Norham

"NORHAM, a parish and village in the hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland, until recently a detached portion of the county of Durham, 8 miles S.W. of Berwick-upon-Tweed, its post town, and three-quarters of a mile from the Norham station on the North-Eastern line of railway. The village, which is extensive, is situated on the river Tweed, at the new Waterford chain bridge, which was erected in 1820, at an expense of not more than £5,000. The river is also crossed about half a mile W. of the village by a strong wooden bridge, erected in 1840, connecting this parish with Ladykirk, in Berwickshire. In ancient times it was a market town, and place of considerable importance under the bishops of Northumbria, having been given to Aidan, the first bishop, by the Saxon King of Northumbria, on his conversion to Christianity. His successors, until the time of Bishop Barnes, who alienated his rights to the crown, continued to exercise a special jurisdiction throughout the district, having their sheriff, coroner, justices, and other civil officers, with a court of exchequer, gallows, &c. Being situated on the Borders between England and Scotland, at the ford of the river Tweed, it became in the Norman times the scene of frequent rupture and bloodshed, and was the general rendezvous of the nobility of both kingdoms for settling affairs of the Border. The parish of Norham, which is of large extent, contains Norham Mains, Cornhill, Hedon, Twisel, and eight other townships, and the famous pass of the river Tweed, called by the Saxons Ubbanford, where the remains of St. Cuthbert rested. On the E. of the village, and on the summit of a rocky eminence impending over the bed of the river, are the ruins of the Border Castle, built in 1121 by Bishop Flambard, which having been enlarged and strengthened by succeeding prelates, was, when well garrisoned, deemed almost impregnable. It was, however, destroyed in 1139 by King David I., but was afterwards rebuilt by Bishop Pudsey, who added the present great tower to the castle, and conferred extensive privileges by charter on the inhabitants of the town, that they might be the more ready to aid in its defence. It was unsuccessfully besieged by King John in his war with the barons, but was twice taken by the Scots in the reigns of Edward II. and Edward III., and was surprised a short time prior to the battle of Flodden Field. It was taken by the Parliamentarians, and was finally destroyed by Cromwell. The keep, or main tower, with its vaults and prisons entire, is the principal part, and is constructed of a soft red freestone. The village consists of one long wide street, containing some modern houses of stone construction, intermixed with others of great antiquity. On the green, which is situated in the midst of the village, is a stone cross. A portion of the inhabitants are engaged in the collieries and fisheries. The land is in a fine state of cultivation. The soil is of a loamy nature, with a subsoil of gravel upon stone and coal, of which latter several mines are in operation. The vicarial tithes have been commuted for a rent-charge of £460, and the glebe comprises 24 acres, valued at £60 per annum. Norham gives name to a deanery in the archdeaconry of Lindisfarne and diocese of Durham. The living is a vicarage* with the curacy of Duddo annexed, in the diocese of Durham, value £529, in the patronage of the dean and chapter. The church, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is of great antiquity, having been rebuilt about 1180 on the site of a more ancient one erected prior to 840. It had three chantries in honour of St. Cuthbert, the Virgin Mary, and St. Nicholas, and possessed the privilege of sanctuary for thirty-seven days. The tower and main aisles were rebuilt in 1837, and the S. and N. transepts were restored in 1846-52. The interior contains many monuments and effigies of great antiquity; also the grave of Ceolwulph, a lineal descendant of Ida, the first Saxon king of Northumberland and of Gospatrick, Earl of Northumberland. The E. window, of Edward III.'s time, is in five compartments, besides several other memorial windows. In the churchyard are some ancient ruins of a monastery, including a stone cross, 10 feet in height. There is a free school for both sexes, founded in 1762, and endowed with an annuity of £60; also a National school, in which a Sunday-school is held. The Free Kirk of Scotland, the Independents, and the United Presbyterians, have each a place of worship. There are some Druidical remains, including a barrow, surrounded by stone steps; also vestiges of a Roman camp, near which two urns were found, containing human bones. The learned Dr. Carleton, who wrote Bishop Gilpin's life, was born in this parish in 1659. Sir W. T. Stanley Massey Stanley is lord of the manor. Fairs are held on the second Thursday in May, and on the third Thursday in October."

"DUDDO, a township in the parish of Norham, hundred of Norhamshire, in the county of Northumberland (formerly in Durham), 72 miles S.E. of Berwick, and 3 from the railway station at Norham. It is situated under Grindon Rigg, where Bothwell defeated Percy in 1558. Brick and tile making and a colliery give employment to a large number of the inhabitants. The living is a curacy annexed to the vicarage of Norham, in the diocese of Durham. The chapel-of-ease is a neat stone structure. There is a school for boys and girls, supported by the present proprietor, Thomas Friar, Esq., who is lord of the manor. Near the village are some remains of a tower and several druidical stones."

"FELKINGTON, a township in the parish of Norham, and hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland, 6 miles S.W. of Berwick. It includes the hamlet of Grievestead, and until recently formed part of the county of Durham."

"GRIEVESTEAD, a village in the township of Felkington, parish of Norham, hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland, 6 miles S.W. of Berwick-on-Tweed."

"GRINDON, a township in the parish of Norham, hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland (it formerly was included in county Durham), 7 miles S.W. of Berwick-on-Tweed. The railway station at Norham is 2 miles from the village. A battle was fought here in 1558, in which the Scots were defeated by the Percys; four upright stones mark the spot where the chieftains who fell in the battle were buried."

"HORNCLIFFE, a township in the parish of Norham, hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland, formerly in Durham, 5 miles S.W. of Berwick. The village, which is small, is situated on the river Tweed, here crossed by a suspension-bridge. This bridge, which was the first of its kind erected in Great Britain, has a noble arch, the span of which is 45 feet by 27 feet in height. It was built at an expense of £5,000, and opened in 1820; the inventor, Sir Samuel Brown, R.N., being presented with a thousand guineas above the stipulated sum. From the higher grounds a view is commanded over the extensive plain of Merse and the banks of the Tweed. Here is a place of worship for the Presbyterians. Horncliffe Hall has not been occupied for some years."

"LOAN-END, a township in the parish of Norham, hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland, formerly in Durham, 4 miles S.W. of Berwick-on-Tweed."

"LONGRIDGE, a township in the parish of Norham, hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland, 3 miles S.W. of Berwick-on-Tweed. Until recently it was included in the county of Durham. Longridge House is the principal residence."

"NORHAM-MAINS, a township in the parish of Norham, hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland, formerly in Durham, 2 miles from Norham, the same distance from Horncliffe, and 6½ S. by W. of Berwick. The township consists of a few farmhouses. Morris Hall is the principal residence."

"SHORESWOOD, a township in the parish of Norham, hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland, formerly in Durham, 6 miles S.W. of Berwick-on-Tweed. The village, which is of small extent, is chiefly inhabited by colliers. There is a National school for both sexes. The manor and the greater part of the land belong to the Dean and Chapter of Durham."

"THORNTON, a township in the parish of Norham, hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland, formerly in Durham, 4 miles S.W. of Berwick-on-Tweed. There is a school for both sexes, maintained chiefly from the Bamburgh estate."

"TWIZELL, a township in the parish of Norham, hundred of Norhamshire, county Northumberland, formerly in Durham, 9½ miles S.W. of Berwick, and 2 from Norham. It is a station on the Kelso branch of the North-Eastern railway, and is situated at the continence of the rivers Tweed and Till. The manor came through the Riddells and Selbys to the Blakes. The Castle is an unfinished, castellated mansion of the Blakes, seated on a rocky precipice, and near it is Tilmo' House, the present residence of the family. In the vicinity are St. Helen's well, an ancient chapel, and a camp."