A Topographical Dictionary of Scotland (1851), Samuel Lewis

PETERCULTER, a parish, in the district of Aberdeen and county of Aberdeen, 7 miles (W. S. W.) from Aberdeen; containing 1259 inhabitants. This place is said to have derived the latter portion of its name, a compound of the Gaelic terms Cul, signifying "a back", and Tir, "a country or district", from its situation on the side of the river Dee; and the former portion of its name, from the dedication of its old church and wells to St. Peter. The church anciently belonged to the monks of Kelso. The place lays claim to a remote antiquity, and is supposed, upon unquestionable authority, to have been a Roman station. On a hill of moderate elevation, in the southwest of the parish, are still some small remains of an ancient camp called Norman Dykes, which, till it was more minutely examined within the last few years, was generally thought to have been constructed by the Danes or the Norwegians, during their invasions of this part of the country in the eleventh century. But from its form, and situation on an eminence commanding the fords of the river, and also on account of its distance from a similar station on the river Ythan, which corresponds exactly with the distance given in the Iter, it has been clearly identified with the Devana of Ptolemy and Richard, raised after the recall of Agricola from Britain. The rampart and ditch on the north side, of which some considerable portions are remaining, appear to have extended for nearly three-quarters of a mile in a direction from E. N. E. to W. S. W.; and from each extremity were carried, at right angles, a similar rampart and ditch, of which small parts can be traced; inclosing a rectangular area 938 yards in length and 543 yards in breadth. Of its identity with the Devana, constructed by Lollius Urbicus in his progress northwards through the county of Aberdeen, a strongly corroborating testimony is afforded by its dimensions, which are precisely the same as those of Rae-Dykes, on the river Ythan, in the parish of Auchterless, which is the second station in the Iter.

The parish is bounded on the south by the river Dee, and is about seven miles in extreme length; an extent, however, that includes a large portion of the parish of Drumoak, by which Peterculter is deeply indented on the west, and exclusively of which its length cannot be estimated at more than five miles. It varies from four to five miles in breadth. From the great irregularity of its form, the superficial contents have not been strictly ascertained; but by estimation they are supposed to be about 10,000 acres, of which probably 6000 are arable, 1600 woodland and plantations, and the remainder meadow, pasture, and waste. The surface is far from uniform rising in some parts abruptly into rocky hills interspersed with level tracts of moss; towards the south, ascending by a gentle acclivity from the banks of the river; and in other parts, undulating with greater or less degrees of boldness. The Dee is subject to frequent inundations; and in the summer of 1829 the water rose to such a height as greatly to damage the crops growing near its banks, and to sweep down many stacks of hay. The salmon-fisheries on this river, previously very lucrative, have been much injured by the introduction of stake-nets at its mouth, and now scarcely remunerate the labour of the fishermen. Numerous rivulets flow through the lands into the Dee; the principal are the Leuchar, the Culter, and the Murtle. Of these the Leuchar burn issues from Loch Skene, in the adjoining parish of Skene, and, running eastward, near the northern boundary of this parish unites with the Culter, which passes at first from north to south, and, receiving the waters of the Gormack burn at the eastern boundary of Drumoak, afterwards flows south-eastward into the Dee near Peterculter church. The scenery is boldly diversified, and in many places enriched with thriving woods and plantations, and the tastefully embellished demesnes of gentlemen's seats, imparting to it a highly pleasing aspect. In the vicinity of a paper-mill situated in a hollow surrounded by hills rising almost perpendicularly to a height of 400 feet, is an aqueduct of wood, 700 feet in length, supported on pillars of stone. It crosses the Culter, at a height of ten feet from its surface, and conveys water to the mill from an extensive reservoir in the rear. The reservoir is half a mile in length, and twenty feet in depth.

In this parish the soil is in general light; on the banks of the river, gravel alternated with sand, with intervals of fine black mould; in the northern portions, mostly a red earth resting upon clay; and in some of the lower grounds, a mixture of black earth or peat-moss which has been rendered fertile. The crops are oats, barley, a very little wheat, turnips, and potatoes, with the usual grasses. Of late years, the system of husbandry has been greatly improved, and large tracts of wasteland have been brought into profitable cultivation; a due rotation of crops is invariably observed, and the trenching and draining of low lands have been extensively practised. The fields are well inclosed, usually with fences of stone. The farm-houses are substantially built of stone and lime, and commodiously arranged; they are upheld by the proprietor of the lands, and the cottages on the various farms are neat and comfortable. No sheep are kept, except some for domestic use and for the sake of their wool; these are all of English breeds: the cattle are of the Aberdeenshire, polled Angus, and Galloway breeds. In the parish are some trees of luxuriant growth, consisting of beech, chesnut, oak, ash, pine, and plane: there is a double avenue of spruce-fir trees of stately dimensions, forming the approach to the mansion of Countesswells; and in the gardens of Murtle House are a fine row of Athenian poplars, and also one of arbor vitae of unusual size. The more recent plantations are very extensive, and consist principally of the various kinds of fir; they are regularly thinned, and, under the most careful management, are all in a thriving state. In the tracts of moss are found remains of ancient forests. Some of the rocks in the parish are a kind of conglomerate, of great durability, but irregular texture, and fit only for building fences: in the south and west districts is granite of good quality, of which large quantities used to be sent to Aberdeen. The annual value of real property in Peterculter is £5588.

Ecclesiastically this place is within the bounds of the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen: the minister's stipend is £196, with a manse, and a glebe valued at £ per annum; patron, R. W. Duff, Esq., of Fetteresso and Culter. The church, beautifully situated on the bank of the Dee, was built in 1779; it is a neat substantial structure, and contains 550 sittings. The members of the Free Church have a place of worship. Peterculter parochial school, for which a handsome and appropriate building was lately erected, capable of receiving 120 scholars, is well conducted. The master has a salary of £28i, with £3. 14. 2., being the interest of a beque for the instruction of poor children; a portion of the Dick bequest; and a house and garden: the fees average about £28 annually. There are also two schools chiefl supported by private subscription: the attendance at each averages thirty. In a plantation on the lands of Binghill are the remains of a Druidical circle, and near it a large tumulus said to have been the burying-place of the ancient family of Drum, whose descendants now reside in an adjoining parish. On Her Majesty's visit to Scotland in September 1848, the royal party passed through this parish on their way to Balmoral: triumphal arches composed of evergreens, &c., had been raised at Murtle and below Culter House, and at the former place Her Majesty was pleased to stop, and receive fruit and flowers for the royal children from the Misses Thurburn, of Murtle.

[From Samuel Lewis A Topographical Dictionary of Scotland (1851) - copyright Mel Lockie 2016]