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A Topographical Dictionary of Scotland (1851), Samuel Lewis

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RATHEN, a parish, in the district of Deer, county of Aberdeen, 4 miles (S.) from Fraserburgh; containing, with the villages of Cairnbulg, Charleston, and Inverallochy, 2270 inhabitants, of whom 1357 are in the rural districts. This place, which is of some antiquity, originally included the greater portion of the adjacent parish of Strichen, and a considerable part of the parish of Fraserburgh. Very little of its history is known; but there is still remaining one of three large tumuli said to have been raised over the bodies of men killed in a battle with the Danes, who, having landed on the eastern coast, to the south of Peterhead, were partially repulsed, and, on their retreat towards Moray, were again attacked, and finally defeated, on the plain in which these cairns were situated. Two of the cairns have been removed in order to furnish materials for building; and under one of them were found several human skulls, a short sword with a handle of iron, and an urn of singular form, containing calcined bones; all which are preserved in the museum of the Antiquarian Society of Edinburgh.

The PARISH is bounded on the north and north-west by the bay of Fraserburgh and the river Rathen, and on the east by the German Ocean, along the shore of which it extends southward more than two miles. It is nearly seven miles in extreme length, and about two miles in average breadth, comprising almost 6500 acres, of which 5000 are arable, about ViO woodland and plantations, and the remainder hill pasture, moor, and waste. The surface is boldly varied. Towards the sea-shore, for a considerable extent, the land is low and even; but towards the south-west, more elevated, rising with greater or less abruptness to the hill of Mormond, which has an elevation of nearly 900 feet above the level of the sea, and of which about a third part is within the limits of this parish. This hill is covered with heath and moss, affording little more than a scanty supply of fuel: grouse are found on it. The river Rathen or Water of Philorth, after forming a boundary between this parish and Fraserburgh for three miles, and turning several mills in its course, falls into the bay of Fraserburgh near Cairnbulg Point. Trout of large size and of good quality are found in the Rathen; and there was formerly a salmonfishery near its mouth, but it has been discontinued many years, and very few salmon at present ascend the stream. In some parts the coast is level and sandy, and in others rocky, but not precipitous. To the south of Cairnbulg Point are two small creeks, on which the nearly contiguous fishing-villages of Cairnbulg and Inverallochy have been built; and along the whole extent of the coast are large quantities of shell-sand and seaweed, affording a supply of valuable manure.

The SOIL in some parts is rich and deep; in others light and sandy, but under good management rendered fertile; and in some districts gravelly, and abounding with stones. Crops are raised of oats, barley, beans, peas, potatoes, and turnips, with the various grasses. The system of husbandry has been greatly improved, and considerable tracts of waste land have been reclaimed and brought under profitable cultivation. A due rotation of crops is observed; and from the abundance of manure obtained on the coast, the agricultural produce on the estates of Cairnbulg and Inverallochy is especially rich in quality. Many substantial and comfortable farm-houses have been built, with offices commodiously arranged. On most of the larger farms threshing-mills have been erected; and the different improvements recently made in the construction of implements have been adopted. Within the last few years a mill has been erected on the river Rathen for the making of potato-flour, to which purpose large quantities of the potatoes grown in the parish are appropriated. The plantations are mostly of recent formation; they consist of firs, interspersed with other trees, and, though not extensive, are generally under good management and in a thriving condition. On the lands of Auchiries is a quarry from which limestone of excellent quality is obtained, and burnt into lime, chiefly for use in building. The annual value of real property in the parish is £6171 The principal seats are, Mormond House, a handsome mansion, erected about thirty-five years ago by Mr. Gordon, of Cairnbulg, and now the property of Miss Strachan; and Auchiries House, rather an old building, the property of William C. Hunter, Esq. In this latter house, which is now in considerable disrepair, are two places of concealment, or secret chambers, said to have been sometimes resorted to by Lord Pitsligo when that unfortunate nobleman took refuge at Auchiries after the year 1745. At Inverallochy, a cottage for occasional residence during the bathing season has been built by Colonel Fraser, proprietor of that estate. Letters are obtained from the post-office of Cortes; and facility of communication is afforded by the turnpike-roads from Aberdeen and Peterhead to Fraserburgh, which unite within the parish, and by various cross roads, lately much improved, and kept in good repair.

For ECCLESIASTICAL purposes this place is within the bounds of the presbytery of Deer and synod of Aberdeen. The minister's stipend is £169. 14. 4., with manse, and a glebe valued at £9 per annum; patron Lord Sultoun. Rathen church, a structure of unknown date, was repaired in 1767; it contains 684 sittings. In 1842 a chapel of ease was built by subscription, and a grant from the General Assembly's church-extension fund, for the accommodation of the inhabitants of Cairnbulg and Inverallochy. The parochial school is attended by about seventy children: the master has a salary of £25. 13. 3., with a house and garden; he is also entitle to a portion of the Dick bequest, and the fees average £30 per annum. A second parochial school has bee erected and endowed, at Inverallochy; it is attended about as numerously as the original parochial school, and the teacher has the status and advantages of a parochial master. On the lands of Cortes are some remains of a Druidical circle. Upon some rising ground to the east of the church, have been found, at various times, urns containing calcined bones; and in one of them was the tusk of a wild boar. Near the church are two mounds of earth, apparently artificial; they are of conical form, terminating in a horizontal plain nearly thirty yards in diameter, and are supposed to have been ancient camps. At Cairnbulg and Inverallochy are the remains of castles, both of great strength, especially the former, of which the walls, of extraordinary thickness, are still nearly entire, and which was for many years the family seat of the ancestors of Lord Saltoun: the latter, of inferior strength, was a residence of the Cumins of Buchan. Alexander Murray, M.D., author of the Northern Flora, was a native of this parish; and his remains were interred here in 1838.

[From Samuel Lewis A Topographical Dictionary of Scotland (1851) - copyright Mel Lockie 2016]